Do you ever take off on a wave and jump up, only to find your foot position has somehow inexplicably gone completely wrong, the stance way too wide, the back foot pointed to the tail, either foot too close to the rail, or stuck into some ugly squat, and, as you realize this, you also realize that you are seemingly powerless to alter it, that you are stuck in that awkward doomed position as you inexorably continue down the face, into a weak ass turn maybe but, then certainly, into the bottom and are mercilessly pummeled by the wave and the reef. As you are pushed down, you can hardly take a breath because you are laughing so hard. "What a kook!"
That's the story of my surf session today.
This has happened to me periodically, regularly enough so that I know I'm no better a surfer now than when I was 9.
Posted by Gordon, No Hair Blog, Mar 2 2018.
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